Top 5 Best Restaurants in Le Marais


What is today considered to be the centre of Paris, was once nothing but a swampland that bordered the east side of the (back then) very small city. I am of course referring to the one and only Le Marais district that spreads across the 3rd and 4th arrondissements of Pairs. The word Marais literally means swamp when translated into English. The true development of Le Marais from swamp to urban centre can be dated back to the reign of Louis XIV.

Today Le Marais is arguably the hippest swamp in all the land. It is my absolute favorite place in Paris to meander by foot. The narrow streets, high rise apartments and cobble stone floors work together in adding to the majestic energy of the neighborhood.

In the more spacious regions you’ll find some of Paris’ greatest attractions. The exquisite Notre-Dame Cathedral and The Louvre both call this swampland home.


The Streets of Le Marais – by Richard Taylor – Wikimedia Commons

A casual stroll around Le Marais will show just how inclusive the neighborhood is when it comes to diversity. Le Marais is home to the largest Jewish community in France, many congregate around beautiful synagogues and kosher restaurants on the famous Rue des Rosiers.

The area is also one of the most notorious LGBTQ+ districts in all of Paris. The streets are alive and enticing, regardless of the season. It is therefore no surprise that some of the most fabulous restaurant concepts exist in this area as well.

Le Marais Jewish Quarter – by Guilhem Vellut – Wikimedia Commons

I’m going to share my pick of the top five best restaurants in Le Marais. Some make the list due to the incredible cuisine, some make the list purely because of the experience of the place. They are all, nevertheless, reason enough to catch the nearest metro straight into the heart of Le Marais.

1. Les Philosophes in Le Marais

28 Rue Vieille du Temple

This wouldn’t be a very good top five list if there weren’t at least one classic French bistro on it. I adore French cuisine, but find sometimes it can be a bit heavy on the “liaison”. Finding the balance in the richness of a meal is something I know when I see it and this is what repeatedly brings me back to a little spot called Les Philosophes in Le Marais.

Les Philosophes Restaurant in Le Marais – by Guy Courtois – Wikimedia Commons

The exterior of the restaurant looks like something straight out of a 1920s French mobster film. There are varnished wood panels where the walls should be and vintage draping around the perimeter in this perfect tone of maroon. I love visiting Les Philosophes in the summer in particular because of their very charming outdoor seating area. Try get a table around sunset so you’re not in the direct heat for too long.

Because I like to go in the summer I usually enjoy one of their Dijon mustard salads and fresh bread as a light meal with a glass of wine. They have an excellent wine selection at Les Philosophes — another reason people gather here during warmer seasons. This is not the kind of place you should go for a quick bite. Though you can, I find you really don’t want to leave once settled.

Les Philosophes – by Les Philosophes – Sourced from their website

The location of the restaurant in the heart of Le Marais makes it the ideal spot to waste your afternoon or evening away, watching the people going by and sipping on fine wine between bites. This restaurant road happens to be one of the main passing points for many of the free guided walking tours around the district.

While the summer months are my personal preference for Les Philosophes, rumor has it their French onion soup is food for the soul when the seasons start to freeze over. I have only ever visited for desert and coffee during this time and am yet to try the soup for myself. Let me know how it is, won’t you?

I can confirm that the ambiance of the restaurant is ten times more romantic with the chill in the air as all of the adjacent streets in Le Marais are lit up and bouncing gorgeous cool light off of the wooden exterior. Très magnifique!

  • Price range: Under €15

2. Tamarind Thai Restaurant in Le Marais

33 Rue François Miron

It must be known that I am an absolute sucker for good, authentic Thai food. I can sniff it out in even the most unlikely of areas. Le Marais is not a Parisian district known for an abundance of Thai cuisine, you’ll find these more popular in areas such as Montmartre or near the Eiffel Tower.

Tamarind Thai Entrance – by Tamarind Thai Restaurant – Sourced from their website

But Tamarind Thai Restaurant in Le Marais is a hidden gem that I stumbled upon accidentally and is now a place I try to visit monthly if possible. It is within walking distance of the Place de la Bastille, so you could consider doing both of these destinations on the same day.

What I love most about this spot is that it is perfect whether you are in need of a place to entertain guests or just to dine alone. It is not the kind of restaurant where you feel strange for doing so. The space itself is cosy and inviting, you almost forget you are in the middle of Parisian life once inside.

Tamarind Thai Restaurant Interior – by Tamarind Thai Restaurant – Sourced from their website

In my opinion Thai food is best enjoyed solely vegetarian. While Tamarind offers a delicious meaty menu as well, their vegetarian one trumps it every time. My favorite thing on the menu is their green curry served with fragrant rice. Go with this or ask the chef to whip you up a special traditional Pad Thai — prepare to have your world spun.

If you’re feeling lazy, Tamarind prepares piping hot takeaways and also delivers; you can enjoy their meals in the comfort of your home. I always recommend making the trip to the venue itself, however, as Rue François Miron is one of the most beautiful roads in Le Marais and well worthy of a lunch or dinner out.

  • Price range: Under €15

3. Le Used Book Cafe in Le Marais

111 Boulevard Beaumarchais

Le Used Book Cafe in Le Marais is what I was referring to when I mentioned that some restaurants are there for the experience, not so much the food. This is an exclusive concept store and one of the trendiest little spots in Le Marais.

Le Used Book Cafe in Le Marais – by Used Book Cafe – Sourced from their website

The idea was to create a bohemian open library experience while enjoying breakfast or brunch from a simple menu. Patrons of the restaurant come in, order light meals and coffee and are encouraged to pick one of the hundreds of books to enjoy with their meal.

The walls are lined with a broad selection of books to make your choice from. While it’s nice to participate, it’s also equally as enjoyable to just be part of the space and observe others nestled into their own nooks with their food and literature. An eclectic array of people hang out at this cafe.

Le Used Book Cafe is just a few blocks walk from the Picasso Museum which is a must while visiting Le Marais. Its a cool spot in the sense that both locals and foreigners hang out at the cafe so it is neither overly exclusive nor overly touristy. Everyone inside has a calm, friendly demeanor at all times and time seems to pass slower in Le Used Book Cafe than it does out in the real world. I find it best to order a pot of tea as it gives you more time to enjoy the space.


Many books to choose from – by Taylor Barber – Unsplash

The smoked salmon bagel is my menu item of choice and pairs well with any of the cafes tea or coffee items. Sometimes they’ll even give you a little complimentary plate of sweet treats to enjoy while you read. The cafe also offers a range of hot soups which are great in the winter.

  • Price range: Under €10

4. L’Aller Retour

5 Rue Charles-François Dupuis

The only reason I wandered into this restaurant was because it was recommended to me by a friend, who, ironically enough, found it by accident herself. It is high up in the north of Le Marais, riding right on the edge of the Folie-Méricourt district.

The interior of this restaurant is enough to make anyone swoon. It is decorated like a retro Parisian apartment, complete with book lined shelves and kitsch 50s wallpaper. Old portraits line the walls and you’ll dine by candle light. It’s unfathomably cozy!

L’Aller Retour in Le Marais – by L’Aller Retour – Sourced from their website

Non-meat eaters will have a difficult time at L’Aller Retour. The menu consists of many options of prime cut, imported meats. These are paired with your choice of 70 red wines. Yes, you read correctly… 70. The impressive wine range is where you’ll splurge, the rest of the menu is surprisingly reasonably priced. For the vegetarians there is a salad of the day as well as potato and grilled veggie sides.

Even if nothing on this menu tickles your fancy in terms of food, I would still recommend visiting for a night cap should you be in the area. The restaurant is open until 12:30am so wandering in late in the evening once the dining guests have finished up is perfectly suitable.

Over 70 wines to choose from – By Bruno Martins – Unsplash

The lingering guests (read: wine connoisseurs) who are still around this late will be only too happy to engage in whimsical conversation with you while the restaurant closes shop.

  • Price range: Under €20

5. L’As du Fallafel in Le Marais

32-34 Rue des Rosiers

One of the most well known restaurants in Le Marais and my personal favorite place to get my falafel fix — L’As du Fallafel. This restaurant is situated on one of the busier streets in the neighborhood; Rue des Rosiers. The Rue des Rosiers is the centre of the Jewish district and where you’ll go to find all the kosher spots in Paris.

I love walking down Rue des Rosiers when I have some time to kill. It’s filled with interesting little book shops and vintage stores. Quite easy to get lost here for hours. I also love being on this road because I know it ends in L’As du Fallafel.

L’As du Fallafel in Le Marais – by Plot Spoiler – Wikimedia Commons

Admittedly due to the overwhelming popularity that this restaurant has gained it is somewhat of a tourist trap these days; making lines longer and wait times inevitable. This is largely thanks to American pop sensation Lenny Kravitz who went and endorsed the restaurant’s falafel sandwich a few years ago. Since then, everyone wants to get their hands on a kebab or falafel shawarma while they have the chance.

There are many places in Paris where you can enjoy good Middle Eastern cuisine… but none quite as authentic as this. With or without the Kravitz name, L’As du Fallafel has been ahead of the game since the beginning and their food is consistently good visit after visit.

Like Lenny, I recommend the falafel sandwich above all else. Be sure to add hummus and eggplant. Sometimes with L’As du Fallafel it’s better to walk away and enjoy your food on foot as the chaos happening inside of the restaurant can be overwhelming.

Thankfully there is much to see on the street and finding a nearby bench to perch yourself and your sandwich on is always an option.

  • Price range: Under €10

Customers wait patiently outside L’As du Fallafel – by RG72 – Wikimedia Commons

Le Marais is an area that makes me excited in general — without the addition of food and drink. So being able to share the top restaurants in Le Marais with newcomers is truly a satisfying role I am only too happy to take on.

While the above five restaurants are sure to provide a memorable experience each time, Le Marais is the kind of place where there is always something better, lesser known and more alluring just around the corner. Part of the fun of wandering this neighborhood is finding all of them.

Bon Appétit!

Let’s make the most of Paris

Now that you know a lot about Paris – and whether you just stay for a few days or for longer – I’m sure you want to make the most of your trip in France. How to make your trip special?

  • Plan your trip in advance and read as many articles online to make sure you have all the necessary info. We have more than 1000 blog articles on Discover Walks – I’m sure you will find something interesting!
  • Paris is a popular destination so you will find many walking tour companies in the area. We run several tours everywhere in Paris and the most popular ones are:
  1. Montmartre walking tour: you will discover the secret side of Montmartre with our local guides. This fun walking tour runs every day at 11am, 2.30pm and 5pm. If you have time for only one tour, it must be this one (rating: 4.9/5)!
  2. Trendy Marais tour: Fashion, mansion, parks and garden… the best of Parisian art de vivre in 90 minutes (rating: 4.7/5)!

See you soon in Paris!

Discover Walks

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