Where can I eat the best tartiflette in Paris?
Tartiflette is one of the most exquisite typical French recipes and holds a special role in spreading happiness when weather turns grim. Generous portion, unctuous cream, melted cheese, the simple idea of eating a tartiflette warms your heart. Originated from Savoie, in the French Alps, tartiflette has been exported all around France, including Paris. After a cold day wondering in Montmartre, shopping in the Marais or visiting the Louvre, choosing to eat a tartiflette will be the best move to end your day perfectly.
A little introduction to Tartiflette
At the heart of Tartiflette are potatoes, onions, crème fraiche and lardons (diced bacon). For those of you who are disposed to experience the full excess of Tartiflette, a glass of wine should be added to the recipe. But the main character of this traditional dish is the Reblochon cheese. And its origin has something to do with something far more dreary and bureaucratic: avoiding tax!
Indeed, in the 1200’s, a tax imposed on farmers to landlords regarding their exploitation of the land. Once a year, the landlord would come to one’s farm to count the amount of milk produced by the herd in a day.
From this calculation, he deduced the quantity of butter and cheese that could be made for the entire year. The higher the production, the higher the tax was. Therefore, in order to pay less tax, farmers would do an incomplete milking before the visit of the landlord.
After the landlord’s departure, a second milking was done and excluded from the scope of the tax. The quantity of milk collected was smaller but richer in cream to produce a better cheese; the Reblochon.
Reblochon cheese; the heart of Tartiflette protected by law
Nowadays, the Reblochon holds a Protected Designation of Origin (AOP), which means there are mandatory rules to follow to be allowed to sell Reblochon. First, the location of the production of reblochon is restricted to the mountains of Haute-Savoie and Val d’Arly in Savoie.
Secondly, only three specific types of cows can provide their milk, Abondance, Montbéliarde and Tarine. And thirdly, 8 steps are required to create a unique Reblochon. If you are interested to read further information about imperative standards and secrets on reblochon, you should check out its official website.
Tartiflette: a lively tradition in Paris
For Tartiflette purists, there is only one way to make a tartiflette. But the democratization of tartiflette has enabled innovative recipes to come to light. So if reblochon remains the key ingredient, you may now found different tartiflettes, more cheesy for you or simply veggie for your friend. If you don’t know which one to try, don’t panic! Paris offers such a large choice of places that you will be able to try them all!
In order to avoid an ordeal by going to the wrong spot, here is a list of the best restaurants in Paris where you can get a tasty tartiflette.
Le Chalet Savoyard
Cozy and inviting, le Chalet Savoyard has a lot to offer to food lovers and curious travelers. In this temple of Savoie, local cuisine is enhanced to awaken your tastebuds. When it comes to tartiflette, you have to decide whether you want a traditional taste, a mushroom flavour, or an experience with blue cheese. Either way Le Chalet Savoyard will leave you wanting more.
58 rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris – Metro: Ledru-Rollin (L8) or Charonne (L9) – Tel: +33 (0)1 48 05 13 13
Open every day for lunch and diner
Pain Vin Fromages
More confidential than le Chalet Savoyard, Pain Vin Fromages is a very authentic address where the tartiflette is well supported by a wide selection of wines full of character and flavour. Le plus: one of the few places where you can try a munstiflette, a tartiflette with munster instead of Reblochon, a very strong cheese from the north of France.
3 rue Geoffroy-l’Angevin, 75004 Paris – Metro: Rambuteau (L11) or Hôtel de ville (L1) – Tel: +33(0)1 42 74 07 52
Open every day from 7pm
After an afternoon in wondering in the 9th arrondissement or a night out at l’Opéra Comique, have a look at Le Marivaux. The menu is full of specialities from Savoie which will make your appetite grow and your head hesitant. If you feel strong enough, try the three cheeses tartiflette, a delicious generous meal.
11 boulevard des Italiens, 75002 Paris – Metro: Richelieu-Drouot (L8 and L9), Opéra (L3, L7 and L8) or Quatre septembre (L3) – Tel: +33 (0)1 42 96 40 66
Open every day for lunch and diner
Les Marmottes is a must-see tartiflette restaurant with a homely setting and a picture of the French Alps on the wall. Enter in les Marmottes and you will feel instantly transported to Savoie for an evening. The smell of melted cheese and the welcoming crew will finish convincing you to come back. Le plus: you can order a veggie tartiflette.
26 rue de la grande truanderie, 75001 Paris – Metro: Etienne Marcel (L4)
Tel: +33 (0)7 49 39 47 74
Les Fondus de la Raclette
The quality of service is often questioned while entering a franchised restaurant. Will I be treated as a random guest? Will the food be qualitative enough? With les Fondus de la Raclette, be assured: the quality waits for you. Thanks to the interior design inspired by typical chalet in wood, the place is cosy and invite you to eat up Savoie’s specialities.
3 restaurants in Paris
- Parmentier 11e: 107 Avenue Parmentier, 75011 Paris – Metro: Parmentier (L3) or République (L3, L5, L8, L9 and L11) – Tel: +33 (0)1 40 21 61 68
- Vavin 14e, the oldest restaurant: 209 Boulevard Raspail, 75014 Paris – Metro: Vavin (L4) – Tel: +33 (0)1 43 27 00 13
- Jules Joffrin 18e, the newest restaurant: 19 rue Joseph Dijon, 75018 Paris – Metro: Simplon (L4) or Jules Joffrin (L12) – Tel: +33 (0)1 42 58 34 22
Open every day for diner and from Wednesday to Sunday for lunch
The excellent starred Savoyard Chef Marc Veyrat can surprise you with anything. His creativity leads him to always reinvent himself. Therefore his menu evolves throughout the year. If you are lucky, he might bring back the Tartiflette in winter!
Palais des congrès de Paris, Level 0 – 2 place de la Porte Maillot ou 78 boulevard Gouvion St Cyr, 75017 Paris – Metro: Porte Maillot (L1) – Tel: +33 (0)1 72 69 03 03
Open every day
Enjoy your tartiflette in Paris!