The Best Non-Touristy Restaurants in le Marais
Updated by Vanessa M in July 2023.
Let’s be real, le Marais is a tourist trap of a neighborhood, pretty much year round. To give credit where it’s due, this part of Paris is filled with whimsey and charm, so it makes sense that everyone wants to stay, dine and shop here as often as they can.
To escape the tourist traps, you can head to these eateries that have somehow managed to stay off the clickbait radar.
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Miznon in le Marais
Can we all agree that there is a big difference between being a tourist, and being a traveler? Unlike tourists, travelers are those who come to a certain city often, either for work or perhaps sheer love of being there. They operate differently to tourists; they don’t get in anyone’s way, they aren’t too sensitive about schedules and time, and they generally blend into the culture more due to their familiarity.
This important distinction comes in when I recommend a restaurant like Miznon, where it’s always packed with people — but not touristy at all. You have to have spent quite a bit of time in Paris, if Miznon made it onto your local radar.
This is traditional Israeli food, all prepared to strict kosher standards at all times. This aside, it is one of the best restaurants in le Marais in my opinion, simply based off of the delicious food and quality service combination.
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Miznon is great because vegans and meat eaters dine in perfect harmony here; there is something on the menu for everyone. If you’re not up for kebab, take advantage of the extensive vegetable menu as well as their incredible dips.
Miznon is authentic to the point of importing Israeli beers to serve on their menu. An immersive dining experience that takes the Israeli culture into consideration throughout.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS: SUNDAY TO FRIDAY — 12PM TO 11PM
ADDRESS: 22 RUE DES ECOUFFES, 75004 PARIS, FRANCE
TRAIN STATION: SAINT PAUL
Pitzman in le Marais
Something you need to keep in mind while in le Marais is that most of the time the restaurants with the least hype have the best food.
Pitzman might not have been sampled by Lenny Kravitz like it’s competitor (L’as du Falafel) up the road, but they do make some incredible falafel alongside a full kosher menu.
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Closed on Saturdays, Pitzman is a really lovely falafel bar accompanied by a deli and bakery. A one stop shop for kosher treats, if you will. Their falafel is the main event, but they also do some surprisingly good fish plates and even some kosher pizzas. Take note that Pitzman also do gluten free falafel!
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS: SUNDAY TO FRIDAY — 11:30AM TO 11:30PM
ADDRESS: 8 RUE PAVÉE, 75004 PARIS, FRANCE
TRAIN STATION: SAINT PAUL
Chilam Gastrobar in le Marais
Chilam Gastrobar is new to the Parisian Mexican food scene, but is fast becoming everyone’s favorite. It’s wonderfully authentic, from the menu to the drinks. The tacos are prepared with homemade tortillas using imported masa harina from Mexico. You won’t find a hard shell taco anywhere in Chilam Gastrobar; this spot is traditional thorough and through.
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You’ll need to book if you want to dine here on a weekend — locals have developed big love for this food from the west.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS: TUESDAY TO SATURDAY — 7PM TO 11PM
ADDRESS: 4 RUE DE BRISSAC, 75004 PARIS, FRANCE
METRO STATION: QUAI DE LA RAPÉE
Boot Café in le Marais
Moving slightly further south in the le Marais district, the Boot Cafe is a fairly new cafe concept built into an old cobbler’s shop dating back to pre-Revolutionary times. As you can imagine, it is tiny!
The cafe specializes in coffees and lattes in flavors from around the world. The cafe section of the space prepares freshly baked treats and light meals to be enjoyed with your hot drink.
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Because the cafe is so close to where le Marais meets the Bastille boarder, this spot has managed to remain a local gem, as opposed to a tourist trap.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS: MONDAY TO SUNDAY: 10AM TO 5PM
ADDRESS: 19 RUE DU PONT AUX CHOUX, 75003 PARIS, FRANCE
METRO STATION: FILLES DU CALVAIRE
Le Bouledogue in Le Marais
The charming interior of this brasserie first roped me in one evening whilst I was actually trying to escape the Fashion Week crowds that were filling the streets of le Marais. The dark wood finishes with the plant life made for a welcoming little hideout on the cold winter’s day.
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It seems the coziness of le Bouledogue isn’t seasonal at all; year round this is a beautiful escape for all who need a reminder (or introduction) of what true French dining is all about. The menu is authentic and perfectly executed each time. You’ll find all your French favorites such as steak tartar, ratatouille, confit de canard and even crispy French fries.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS: Monday TO Saturday — 12pm to 11pm
ADDRESS: 20 Rue Rambuteau, 75003 Paris, France
METRO STATION: Rambuteau
La Trattoria di Bellagio
Looking for a cool place in Paris to have fun, drink delicious fruity cocktails, and dine like a native Italian? La Trattoria di Bellagio, located on the Avenue des Ternes near the Palais des Congrès, serves classic Italian cuisine.
It takes its name from a little village near Lake Como and delivers the best of Italian flavors from all across the country. Vintage Berkel machines awaiting the finest in Italian charcuterie, whitewashed brick walls, tables strewn about, colored glass lighting and mismatched furniture, and unique photography- La Trattoria di Bellagio has caught Italy’s inimitable character.
A massive counter pouring Peroni and Moretti on tap, cabinets brimming with the greatest Italian wines, and an entire wall dedicated to Italian goodies to take home round out the picture. Welcome to La Trattoria di Bellagio, a genuine neighborhood restaurant open to friends and family.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS: Monday TO Sunday — 12-3 pm to 7-11:30 pm
ADDRESS: 101 Av. des Ternes, 75017 Paris, France
METRO STATION: Neuilly – Porte Maillot
Chez Janou
This lively and modest Provençal-centric restaurant, popular with residents and personnel from adjacent galleries, offers a set lunch menu for a complete steal: €14.50 gets you a main course and an appetizer or a main course and a dessert. If you go with the latter, they prepare the most memorable and dangerously exquisite chocolate mousse—which is also all-you-can-eat.
The food is both classic and nostalgic. Much of it is market-driven, but there is always an abundance of fresh-caught seafood and shellfish. Of course, delectable grilled à point meats round out the options.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS: Monday TO Sunday — 8 am-2 pm
ADDRESS: 2 Rue Roger Verlomme, 75003 Paris, France
METRO STATION: Chemin Vert
Les Enfants Rouges
Still, for anyone looking for a textbook example of bistronomique cooking, Les Enfants Rouge is a great place to go. It also helps to make up for the fact that the Marais still doesn’t have as many good restaurants as its popularity would suggest. Arriving at this small attractive room off of the trendy rue de Bretagne, the space appears to be a small art gallery, with contemporary paintings spot-lit on the white walls and a mix of tables dressed with white tablecloths.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS: thur; 7-10 pm/fri-mon;12-2 pm,7-10 pm
ADDRESS: 9 Rue de Beauce, 75003 Paris, France
METRO STATION: Temple
Breizh Café
This is a rustic-chic right in the heart of the Marais. Known for the greatest Breton-style buckwheat galettes and delicious crêpes in Paris (it turns out that Paris did not invent the crêpe). The owners are a Franco-Japanese pair with outposts in Japan, so you’re likely to eat next to Japanese tourists and other out-of-towners who have tracked down the original location. It’s more of a local hangout after hours and at night.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS: mon-sun; 10 am-11 pm
ADDRESS: 109 Rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75003 Paris, France
METRO STATION: Rambuteau
Robert et Louise
Robert et Louise, a historic French restaurant in Paris’s Marais district, is a must-visit for meat lovers looking for a genuine dining experience. The interior design is warm and rustic, with a wood fire grill as the focal point. Prices are affordable given the high quality of the cuisine and service. Escargots, foie gras, lamb chops, and beef ribs grilled to perfection over a wood fire grill are among the typical French specialties on the menu.
Wine enthusiasts can sample a choice of French wines by the bottle or glass. The service is courteous and attentive, and the staff is knowledgeable about the menu and drink options.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
ADDRESS: 64 Rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75003 Paris, France
METRO STATION: Saint-Paul (Le Marais)
Le Trumilou
Le Trumilou, which has been in operation since 1964 on the Quai de l’Hotel de Ville, faces the tip of Ile Saint Louis and welcomes you in a picturesque environment that smells of the land. Almost little has changed from the beginning, which is what makes it so endearing.
Among the excellent classics, try the duck with prunes or the grandmother’s sweetbread. Every day, new recipes are presented to you, such as veal Escalope mustard flambéed with Calvadosor rib of beef for two. The wine list features a superb range as well as regional wines, including an exceptional Saint Chinian.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS: mon-sat; 12-3 pm, 7-11 pm/sun; 12-3 pm, 7-10:30 pm
ADDRESS: 84 Quai de l’Hôtel de ville, 75004 Paris, France
METRO STATION: Pont Marie (Cité des Arts)
Le Colimaçon
Le Colimaçon is a beautiful French restaurant in Paris’ famous Marais district. The rustic charm and modest ambiance of the establishment make it suitable for a romantic evening or an intimate dinner with friends. Traditional French food with a modern touch, such as escargots served in pastry shells, stuffed rabbit leg with mushrooms and foie gras, and entrecôte steak, is on the menu.
The wine list is comprehensive, with a stunning red from Provence for 29€ standing out. The personnel is competent and polite, and they provide outstanding service to consumers all year. Prices are affordable given the exceptional quality of the cuisine and service. The interior design is snug and personal, with exposed beams contributing to the appeal. The establishment is a little small, but that only adds to its charm.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS: mon-sat; 6:30-11 pm/sun; 12:30-3 pm, 6:30-11 pm
ADDRESS: 44 Rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75004 Paris, France
METRO STATION: Saint-Paul (Le Marais)
Glou
This stylish Parisian bistro is a great joy, with a focus on sustainable and organic ingredients. Glou’s eating experience is unlike any other, with careful attention paid to every detail. Glou, located in the 3rd Arrondissement, delivers classic French cuisine made with seasonal and fresh ingredients sourced from local producers and vendors who use sustainable practices. Even the wine is selected with an eco-conscious mindset in mind.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS: mon-sun; 10 am-1 am
ADDRESS: 101 Rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75003 Paris, France
METRO STATION: Saint-Sébastien – Froissart
L’As du Fallafel
This eatery is frequented by people on the pedestrian street des Rosiers, which winds through the capital’s Jewish district, since 1979. The fried falafel balls, delicate eggplant, and hummus fill the famed pita sandwiches here. While there is a dining room on the premises, most customers join the line (don’t worry, it moves quickly!) and take their orders to go. Although the area now has other rival shops, l’As remains a favorite among locals.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS: sun-thur; 11 am-11 pm/fri; 11 am-4 pm
ADDRESS: 34 Rue des Rosiers, 75004 Paris, France
METRO STATION: Saint-Paul (Le Marais)
Le Mary Celeste
This is a famed oyster and cocktail bar in Paris’ fashionable Marais district in the 4th arrondissement. Le Mary Celeste is known for enormous bay windows that steam up in winter and are thrown open in the summer. A central bar dominates the space, with stools lining its edges and larger tables circling the perimeter.
Named for the famous ghost ship, guests will find gentle nautical hints including white-washed wood and pastel blues to help the oysters slide down. Cocktails and the plates of food here are inspired and beautifully put together, and, even at busy times, the service is excellent.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS: mon-fri; 6 pm-2 am/sat-sun; 12 pm-2 am
ADDRESS: 1 Rue Commines, 75003 Paris, France
METRO STATION: Saint-Sébastien – Froissart
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