Explore Istanbul’s Idyllic Princes’ Islands

Istanbul’s Princes Islands, called Adalar in Turkish, makes island hopping a real possibility and quite a surprise for those that don’t know about them! They’re wildly popular with both Istanbul’s inhabitants and tourists alike.

The Princes’ Islands of Istanbul is a group of nine islands on the Marmara Sea which are named as Büyükada (Prinkipo), Heybeliada (Halki), Burgazada (Antigoni), Kınalıada (Porti), Yassıada (Plati), Tavşanadası (Miandros), Kaşıkadası (Pita), Sedef Adası (Terevintos) and Sivriada (Oxis). Used by exiled figures throughout history, such as statesmen, princes, and queens starting from Roman Era until the end of the Byzantine Era.

The population of the island has steadily increased since the 19th century as Istanbul saw more and more foreingers, minorities and statesmen live there as part of the Ottoman Empire’s administration modernized. Today, the population numbers fluctuate drastically between the seasons, increasing in the summer months and weekend numbers climb even higher.

Photo by meriç tuna on Unsplash

The beautiful houses on the island are mostly used as summer houses for the wealthy. Naturally, during the summer months, people escape the hustle of the city or the mainland and choose to spend a few hot months here, taking a dip in the cool waters of the Marmara. According to the Island’s municipality, more than 50% of the residents of islands are born in Istanbul and on the Island. The islands’ population is generally small but in the summer months, it swells to thousands. 

The multiculturalism of the islands is rooted in the fact that the residents are mostly of Greek (Rum), Armenian, Assyrian and Jewish backgrounds. As a result, you can see that the island and its culture, including its architecture, food and social life differs from mainstream Turkish culture.

Moroever, many artists, poets and writers have lived or have spent some time on the islands. For example, in Heybeliada, you can find the Hüseyin Rahmi Gurpinar (writer) House Museum and the Ismet Inönü (one of the founders of the Turkish Republic) House Museum. In Burgazada, the Sait Faik (writer) House Museum are all worth a visit.

Situated in the Marmara Sea off the coast of Kadıköy’s Bostancı district, the big four islands are conveniently connected from both the Europe and Asia via a ferry system. These islands are the quickest getaway from the city of 20 million inhabitants. Being just a throws away from the chaos of the mainland, you’ll enjoy a day out to remember! Cars aren’t allowed on the islands so you’ll get plenty of exercise. Bring your walking shoes!

Alternatively, a bathing suit can help. A relaxing dip in some of the tiny beaches and beach clubs scattered around the island is a perfect way to enjoy the day in the summer. Then again, you can take a ride on a nostalgic horse drawn carriage or take a tour on a bicycle.

You can find Ottoman-era architecture in old wooden mansions and pavilions here.  Many old mansions survive today in varying states of decay and splendor, so be sure to dedicate some time to wandering the streets of the island. You can choose to stay at beautifully restored hotels such as the art nouveau Splendid Hotel and the newer more modern, Asiyan Hotel. Moreover, there are some famous houses such as the one lived by Leon Trotsky and Turkish author Reşat Nuri Güntekin. In general, the islands used to have the residences of the wealthy: Ottoman-era state administrators and Istanbul’s minorities.

For food, a fish restaurant on the shores of the islands is a real possibility. However, a relaxing picnic is also an option as restaurant prices can be high. Then, there’s also a sweet option of ice cream, especially in the hot summer months.

Another good stop is the Princes’ Islands Museum, which is housed in an old school building. It was created as a result of Istanbul being declared as the European Capital of Culture for 2010.

How To Get There

The fastest way to get to the islands is to get on a ferry from Kabataş, on the European side and Bostancı, the Asian side of Istanbul. Then, there’s another ferry line. It takes off in Kabataş and then makes a stop in Bostancı before going to the islands. In less than 45 minutes, you’ll on the big island, called Büyükada and its Ottoman-built ferry terminal. From there, you can arrive at the island’s main square.

Image sourced from Unsplash

Büyükada

The biggest island is called Büyükada which translates to ‘large or big island.’ Its area is 5.4 square kilometers and its 2300 meters away from the Maltepe coast of Kadıköy. Büyükada is perhaps the most popular of the islands because of its size. There’s also many more shops and restaurants that you’ll find here than in the smaller islands.

Büyükada has always been inhabited in the past, both in the Byzantine and Ottoman periods. A significant number of Ottoman literati described its beauty, in addition to the island people and others, predominantly Greeks. After it lost its Greek population in the Population Exchange, the island was almost forgotten. However, towards the 1940s, it regained its feature of being a summer resort that was preferred by the wealthy of the Republican era, including state dignitaries and high bureaucracy. In this period, Büyükada saw new mansions and institutions. It became one of the daily travel destinations of the people of Istanbul!

As cars aren’t allowed, bikes or horse-drawn carriages are the most common form of transportation. You can rent a bike and explore the big island with its many beautiful Ottoman-era mansions. In the summer months, you can make a pit stop at some of beach clubs for a nice cool swim in the sea!

A classic Ottoman-era wooden mansion, Photo by Hulki Okan Tabak on Unsplash

Büyükada offers some very interesting architecture and buildings for the enthusiastic history lover. Leon Trotsky took refuge from the Soviet Union in a beautiful mansion, built in 1885. He spent approximately four years, between 1929 to 1932 on the island. Unfortunately, the house is now in a dilapidated state. It was here that he wrote his autobiography, My Life. It’s now become a famous and popular as the red brick façade is recognizable even from the sea as you get ferried in. It’s been designated a cultural heritage on the island and may soon become a museum, if and when it gets new owners. Until then, it’s unfortunate, that it’s been left to decay.

Other old pavillions such as the Con Paşa Köşk, the Mizzi Köşk, the Hacopoulo Köşk and the Agasi Efendi Köşk are worth seeing here. Some are being restored and we may soon get to visit them and their beautiful interiors.

Photo by Esy Nt on Unsplash

On the other hand, some amazing views of the big city can be enjoyed from the hill of Aya Yorgi Church, for instance. Aya Yorgi church and monastery, built in the 6th century AD, is the highest hill of the island. There are also the remains of many churches and monasteries at this location; only some have survived. On the Isa Hill, there is the Christos Church and monastery. Furthermore, the Ayios Dimitrios Church is one of the important religious buildings of the island. The Orthodox community on the island performs their major rituals here. There are also 4 mosques on Büyükada. The most striking architecturally is the Hamidiye Mosque, built by Abdülhamid II.

Aşıklar Tepesi or Lover’s Hill includes some good picnic grounds. You can choose to tie a ribbon on one to fulfill a wish on one of the trees here. You can also take a walk or do a picnic at the Dilburnu Nature Park. Make sure to get a good view of the neighbouring island here!

The Luna Park casino and restaurant in the middle of the Island is a popular entertainment spot. Grab a good dinner here and enjoy the view as you do so! The Buyukada Kurşunburn Martyrs Forest is a nice spot to camp and smell the beautiful pine trees.

To satisfy your appetite, the best option is to head back to the restaurants near the ferry station or choose a bistro-cafe such as Kahve Dunyasi. Finish or start your day with some local island ice cream on the street right opposite the ferry terminal on this island. You can try either Prinkipo Dondurma or Roma Dondurma for delicious ice cream! Alternatively, you can hop onto another ferry that takes you to the other islands, but they have much less to offer.

Photo by Esy Nt on Unsplash

Heybeliada

If you’d rather head to a smaller island, you’ve got the smaller one – Heybeliada. It’s is a great choice with its historic Greek Orthodox theology school. It’s now closed but still viewable. There’s also some more beautiful old mansions and many fish restaurants by the water.

Heybeliada is the largest island of Istanbul after Büyükada. The reason why the island is called Heybeliada is that when viewed from afar, the island looks like a saddlebag left on the ground – “heybey” in Turkish. It is famous not only for its nature and clean air, but also for its institutions. There’s also a Navy school, a Sanatorium, and a Seminary. The Sanatorium here is among Turkey’s first.

Photo by Emir Aydın on Unsplash

As with other islands, ferry services to the island started in the middle of the 19th century and as a result, the population swelled. Both Turks and wealthy Greeks lived here, until the population exchange reduced numbers after the War of Independence.

In terms of geography, Heybeliada has around 4 hills and 4 ports. The highest one is called Değirmentepe.The most important harbour is the Çam Harbour and the Bahriye (Navy) Harbour. Along with the Navy school, the island’s got some mansions where famous people stayed: Huseyin Rahmi Gürpınar, İsmet İnönü and the Abbas Halim Pasha.

Heybeliada is memorialized in some Turkish literature and some big names such as Aziz Nesin. Learn more about Turkey’s most famous writers and poets in our article: Book Lovers: Discover Turkey’s Most Popular Writers & Poets.

Burgazada

Burgazada is the third biggest island in the group. But also has its share of beautiful old houses, hidden churches, beaches. The island’s famous restaurant, Kalpazankaya Restaurant and beach, which boasts an amazing view of the sea. Here you can witness an even more beautiful sunset!

The island’s around 2 kilometres wide, circular in shape and has only one big hill and one port. Near the port, you’ve got the public beach of the island where locals and others can enjoy a nice day at the beach. A small promontory extends into the sea and it has a few restaurants and cafes where you can sit and enjoy a coffee or a luncheon. A steep hill south of here is Bayrak Tepe (hill in Turkish) is located. On top of the hill is the small Christos Monastery. As you continue on the coast, you come to the Kalpazankaya street and its small cove, beach and restaurant. Further moth, there’s Marta Bay and Aya Yorgi Monastery in the north. As you head towards the port again, you’ve got the Sait Faik (writer) Museum, where the famous writer lived. Sait Faik also known as Abasıyanık is one of the great names in Turkish literature and is also one of the well-known figures of Burgazada.

The island is much more expensive than the others due to the high house prices and rents. As such, it’s obviously preferred by the wealthy and by artists preferring a seclusion. 

Image sourced from Wikimedia Commons

Kınalıada

Kınalıada is one of the smallest islands in the island group. It’s just 1500X1100 kilometers in size. The island’s name comes from the fact that its vegetation has a reddish appearance, hence the name “Kına” which means “henna.”

The island is much calmer than other islands as it had no electricity or water until 1946 and 1981, respectively. Armenians were the island’s first inhabitants and it is still inhabited by them during the Ottoman period. It’s still known as the island inhabited by Armenians. Soon after transport lines were introduced, Greeks and Turks started settling. Nonetheless, it’s a small island with a few thousand in numbers, but in the summer months, obviously, the island’s population swells to ten thousands.

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